Project:
Research on Cassis as a wine and a wine region in the past, present, and future. This field and archival study has sought to understand how the wine from this
one small commune on the Mediterranean coast evolved through time, reflects the
notion of terroir, and represents a particular commercial structure. Although
wine was probably produced in the commune in Greco-Roman Antiquity, its character
today is a product of the twentieth century. The transcendental event was its
designation in 1936 as an appellation contrôlée (AOC) which
set down specific legal requirements about territorial definition, acceptable
grape varieties, and maximum allowed production. Appellation contrôlée
in Cassis in the year 2000 has fourteen producers, all of whose grapes come from
inside the commune, but one of whose wineries is outside the commune. An extraordinary
70% of its production is purchased by the restaurant business; only about 5% is
exported. The future of the Cassis wine region is enhanced by the land-use protection
afforded by the special legal status for AOC territories approved in 1990 and
by the master plan (Plan d'occupation du sol) for the commune revised in
1999. Viniculture in Cassis is now perceived as enhancing the aesthetics of landscape
and for its role in mitigating the periodic floods and forest fires. However,
the unusual attractiveness of Cassis and the relentless suburbanization of Greater
Marseilles create intense land-use pressures that cloud the long-term future of
Cassis viniculture. This study also raises larger questions about wine in France:
the generalized shift in controlled appellations toward greater specificity of
type (in Cassis, this is reflected in increasing emphasis on just white wine and
on the Marsanne variety of grape); the characteristic use of micro-environmental
factors that define terroir as the indispensable explanation for wine quality;
the implications for the relative lack of innovation within an appellation due
to the rigidity of AOC rules; the intense territorialization that appellation
contrôlée represents and how that is manifested; and the meaning
of the florid and uncritical discourse of wine meant to promote sales rather than
to provide realistic quality evaluations. |